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What technique do you use to minimize glue squeeze-out inside the guitar when gluing the top to the sides? This is after the back has already been attached to the sides.

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Formerly know as Mandodiddle.

The answer is very straightforward: Don't put too much glue on it

As for how to go about accomplishing that, I use a paintbrush to apply glue to both surfaces. Better control of quantity than a squeeze bottle, and doing both surfaces ensures that all wood is fully wetted without needing any excess. Mark around the outline when dry fitting so you have a visual reference of how far in from the edge should be coated with glue.

I use hide glue and reheat after the clamps are on, but I would expect Titebond or whatever to work just as well with a brush. Water it down a bit if necessary.

Exactly, it’s all about how much glue you put on. I use TB OG. I run a thin bead along the rims, then come behind in a gently tapping/smooshing movement to flatten the glue out along the lining, wiping up any excess as i go. When done, there is just a very thin tacky layer all along the linings…

Dennis is right, you have to control the amount of glue you put on. I also use a brush on both surfaces.

Edit: I use a pencil to mark where the edge of the lining is on the top so I know where to brush the glue. Obviously I do that before I glue on the back.

Steve

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

It's really just practice makes perfect. Do test glue ups with the glue you use and type of glue joint you want, and the squeezeout that suit you.

In a test joint I look for minimal squeeze out but some, even sporadically along the joint, doesn't have to be squeeze out along the whole joint cause you know your technique is working where there is some, so similar application should be good.

Bottom line is exactly what Dennis said -- Use less glue.

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
N8ZED

I found a quarter inch bead or slightly less of Titebond original smashed out to cover the entire gluing surface and the squeeze out on the inside of the box migrates into the kerfs of the kerfed, reverse linings I always used. It was just right and no squeeze out dripped anywhere on the inside.

On the outside there was squeeze out and I'm happy to see it it tells me I used enough glue and was easy to wipe up when I used my go-bar deck with adjustable height to clamp the back or top on.

So one more vote for it's all about how much glue you use but this was not difficult to find out, 1/4" bead or slightly less of Titebond Original was more than enough and we should never be afraid to have squeeze out we just try to eliminate or reduce it inside the box where we can't get at it.

I use spool clamps around the top, and when they're all on I just flip the box on it's face and let the glue set that way. If (heaven forefend) there's any squeeze out inside it doesn't run down the sides.

The folks who build wood airplanes (yes, there are still some) say that the way to be sure you got glue on a surface is to put it there. I try not to rely on the clamps to squeeze the glue into the joint, preferring to use a little extra and deal with the small amount of squeeze out if I have to. A thin layer, on both surfaces, is best IMO.

After I lay the glue down, I will "splotch" spread with a craft sponge to help keep it consistent. Then I will run my finger along the inside edge to clear some glue out (like 1/8"). This helps reduce the amount of squeeze-out on the inside.

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-Marcus
http://www.bailieguitars.com
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I use these, first saw it in the Greenfield video:





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Reverse kerf lining seems to help some with squeeze out too, the glue stays in the slots.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.